Kazakhstan – Khan Tengri

Dates: 13/7/19 to 11/8/19 Price: £3250

The striking pyramidal peak of Khan Tengri (6,995m) lies in the heart of the Tien Shan range of mountains, which span the borders of the independent states of Kazakhstan and Kirghizia, as well as China’s Xinjang province.

This mountain is the primary objective of this trip, but rather than go up and down it to acclimatise, we climb and traverse the peak Marble Wall (6,400m), which is also a fine climbing objective in its own right. The Tien Shan range of mountains remained ‘out of bounds’ to western mountaineers, until the collapse of communism in the former Soviet Union. Fortunately this change allowed the opening of access to these unique and visually stunning mountains.Khan Tengri offers a near perfect objective for a commercial expedition. The mountain is readily accessible and the route we plan to climb, whilst not being overly technical, is long and physically demanding, with some steep exposed sections, which are fixed with ropes.


Days1-2 International flight to Almaty, Kazakhstan. We will be met and driven into the mountains immediately above the city to spend the night in a hotel at the ski resort of Chimbulak.
3 We spend the day walking in the mountains that are very alpine in character, and gain some initial acclimatisation to 3,800m.
4-5 We drive from Almaty into the central part of the Tien Shan range of mountains to a camp at a road head called Bayankol. We then spend a day walking above the camp.
6 Walk to Marble Wall base camp.
7-16 Acclimatising and then climbing Marble Wall. We descend the south side of the mountain to reach Khan Tengri base camp on the North Inylchek Glacier.
17-18 Resting at the base camp on the North Inylchek Glacier.
19-23 Climbing of Khan Tengri. We will use three camps on the mountain and go for the summit from a top camp at 5,900m.
24-26 Resting at the base camp. These days also act as a time buffer should we have been delayed before by bad weather.
27 A helicopter will pick us up from the base camp and fly us back to Bayankol. There are spectacular views of Khan Tengri and Marble Wall on the way. Night in Hotel Almaty.
28 A day free in the city.
29-30 International flight home.


This expedition is ideally suited to fit climbers who wish to climb to around 7,000m, and for those who are considering venturing higher in future years.


Simple hotel at Chimbulak. Tents while in the mountains and two nights in the Hotel Almaty while in the city at the end of the trip.

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